Lecture 18: Currents and Waves 
Lecture 18: Currents and Waves
by UCLA / Edwin Schauble
Video Lecture 18 of 27
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Date Added: December 5, 2010

Lecture Description

November 6, 2009

Waves
The Anatomy of a Wave
The Dynamics of a Wave
Oscillation
Oscillation: Water depth matters
Deep vs. Shallow Water Waves
Ocean Waves
Tsunami
Ocean wave classification and “power”
Wind-Driven Ocean Waves
Wind-Seas and Swells
Wind Sea: wind & storm create and grow new waves
Swell: waves that have left their birthplace sorted by dispersion (longest move fastest)
Breaking Waves
Waves can’t transport energy as efficiently in shallow water

Lecture Notes: Lecture 18: Current2 and Waves

Course Index

Course Description

In this course, Prof. Edwin Schauble gives 27 video lectures on Introduction to Oceanography. This class provides a general introduction to geological, physical, chemical, and biological processes and history of Earth's global oceanic system.

Prerequisites
•High school science background
– Math: algebra & geometry, graphs
– Metric units
– Geography: maps, Earth's major features, longitude & latitude
– Chemistry: elements, atoms, molecules, chemical equations
– Physics: matter, density, waves, velocity, energy, gravity
– Biology: genus, species, evolution, plants & animals

Original Course Name: Earth & Space Science 15: Introduction to Oceanography.

Note
: Some clips and images may have been blurred or removed to avoid copyright infringement.

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