November 6, 2009
The Anatomy of a Wave
The Dynamics of a Wave
Oscillation: Water depth matters
Deep vs. Shallow Water Waves
Ocean wave classification and “power”
Wind-Driven Ocean Waves
Wind-Seas and Swells
Wind Sea: wind & storm create and grow new waves
Swell: waves that have left their birthplace sorted by dispersion (longest move fastest)
Waves can’t transport energy as efficiently in shallow water
Lecture Notes: Lecture 18: Current2 and Waves
In this course, Prof. Edwin Schauble gives 27 video lectures on Introduction to Oceanography. This class provides a general introduction to geological, physical, chemical, and biological processes and history of Earth's global oceanic system.
•High school science background
– Math: algebra & geometry, graphs
– Metric units
– Geography: maps, Earth's major features, longitude & latitude
– Chemistry: elements, atoms, molecules, chemical equations
– Physics: matter, density, waves, velocity, energy, gravity
– Biology: genus, species, evolution, plants & animals
Original Course Name: Earth & Space Science 15: Introduction to Oceanography.
Note: Some clips and images may have been blurred or removed to avoid copyright infringement.