Pet Care: Rabbits

In this video lesson, Dimitri LaBarge (please visit his website: http://www.infinite-moment.com) shows us how to give medication to a rabbit. Just like the rest of us, rabbits will take medicine more easily if it tastes good. But if you’re stuck with the old-fashioned, bad-tasting kind, here’s how to make the medicine go down:



You Will Need:



- An eyedropper or medicine syringe

- A towel

- A chair, stool, or bench to sit on

- A tiny bunny treat, like a raisin or piece of apple

- A small quantity of mashed banana or applesauce (optional)



Step 1: Measure Out Medicine



Have the correct measured dose of medicine ready in an eyedropper or medicine syringe.



TIP: Some bunny owners like to coat the filled eyedropper or syringe with mashed banana or applesauce once it’s filled. This means a nice taste for the bunny—on the outside of the syringe, at least!



Step 2: Prepare After-medication Treat



Stash an after-medication treat, like a raisin or a small piece of apple, in a convenient spot so you can get to it as soon as you’re done.



TIP: Many pet medications must be shaken before they’re used. Check the label on the bottle to be sure.



Step 3: Arrange Your Seat



Arrange your chair, bench, or stool in the place you plan to dose Bun-bun.



TIP: Since you’ll probably need to give your rabbit her medicine over the course of several days, leave the chair in place so she won’t get suspicious every time she sees you setting up.



Step 4: Pick Up Rabbit



Pick up the bunny as calmly as you can, speaking soothingly while you do. Wrap her tightly in the towel—think “bunny burrito”—so that she can’t get her legs free to kick or scramble around.



Step 5: Take a Seat



Take a seat, both of you! Sit down on the chair, stool, or bench with the bunny held firmly on your lap.



Step 6: Hold Rabbit Firmly



Tucking the rabbit firmly under one arm, hold her against your body. If you’re right-handed, use your left arm. If you’re left-handed, use your right arm.



Step 7: Grip Rabbit’s Head



With the hand that’s holding the bunny, grip her head. Use your thumb to pry her lips open. Keep holding her against your body so she won’t be able to back away from the medicine.



TIP: Continue speaking soothingly throughout the procedure. At least it may help calm you down.



Step 8: Insert Eyedropper or Syringe in Rabbit’s Mouth



Still, gripping the bunny’s head and holding open her lips, use your other hand to slide the filled eyedropper or syringe into her mouth. Always slide it in from the side, where a rabbit’s teeth won’t get in the way.



Step 9: Squirt Medicine



Squirt the medicine as far back into the bunny’s throat as you can. Hold her mouth closed for a few seconds.



Step 10: Expose Treat



Show the rabbit her treat before you place her carefully on the floor and remove the towel. If she’s too mad to stick around, leave the treat on the floor—she’ll come back for it.



Step 11: Take Heart



It would be great if rabbits knew you were doing this all for their own good, but take heart. The treatments will soon be over, and after a few days your bunny won’t remember what you put her through.



TIP: A five-pound rabbit drinks as much water as a twenty-pound dog.

In this video, Nelson Nunez (please visit his website: http://www.nelsonnunez.com) shows us how to feed your rabbit. People used to think a rabbit’s diet should consist of a bowl of pellets from the pet store. Now we know better. Here’s how to keep your rabbit happy and well-nourished:



You Will Need:



- Rabbit books, magazines, and websites for research

- A steady supply of feed-quality timothy hay

- A large litter box

- Newspapers to line the box

- Alfalfa-based rabbit pellets for rabbits six months and younger

- Timothy-based rabbit pellets for rabbits six months and older

- Dark, leafy greens, such as chicory or dandelion

- A one-quart water bottle

- Small pieces of carrot for treats (optional)

- Salt or mineral blocks (optional)



Step 1: Research Rabbit Needs



Before you bring your rabbit home, research his nutritional needs—along with all his other needs, of course! Reading up-to-date rabbit books, magazines, and websites will explain rabbit nutrition in depth.



TIP: Steer clear of books and websites produced by rabbit breeders. They’re most concerned with how to make rabbits grow as fast as possible—not how to keep them as healthy as possible.



Step 2: Offer Endless Hay



The staple of a rabbit’s diet should be as much clean, high-quality timothy hay as your bunny can put away. Rabbits can’t overfeed on hay, which is best for their tummies, their teeth, and their health.



TIP: Your best bet will be to buy your timothy in flakes, half-bales, or full bales. The small bags of hay you can find at most pet stores tend to be very expensive, and aren’t always fresh.



Step 3: Use a Litter Box as a Dish



There’s no way around it: hay makes a mess. The easiest way to keep your bunny’s meal in one place is to put it into a large, high-sided litter box lined with newspaper.



Step 4: Feed Rabbit-sized Portions



Every day, give your rabbit a supply of hay that’s about the same volume as his body. He needs extra to dig into and rest on.



Step 5: Change Hay Box Frequently



Unfortunately, most bunnies enjoy eating and pooping at the same time. So change the hay box frequently. If the box is large enough, you can “top” off the existing hay with a new layer for a couple of days.



TIP: Speaking of poop, large, dryish droppings are a welcome sign that your bunny is getting plenty of hay.



Step 6: Use Pellets as Supplements



While not an appropriate entrée, pellets are a good source of vitamins and minerals. Toss a small handful on top of the hay—around two tablespoons for a two- to three-pound rabbit, and around one-quarter cup for a five-pounder.



TIP: Alfalfa-based pellets are okay for rabbits that are six-months old or younger. After that, switch to timothy-based pellets. These can be hard to find in pet stores, but many rabbit websites sell them.



Step 7: Offer Leafy Greens



Rabbits need fresh leafy greens every day. Use about half a cup for a rabbit that’s two pounds or less; about three quarters of a cup for a three- to five-pounder; and about a cup for a rabbit that’s five pounds or more.



TIP: Bugs Bunny may love carrots, but they contain too much sugar to be given to your rabbit regularly. Small pieces of carrots are okay for treats once in awhile, though.



Step 8: Hydrate Your Rabbit



It’s not food, of course, but while we’re on the subject: Make sure your rabbit has plenty of fresh water every day.



Step 9: Offer Salt or Mineral Blocks



You don’t need to put a salt block or mineral block in your bunny’s cage, but it won’t hurt if you do.



Step 10: Keep Your Bunny Happy



Yes, a good complete rabbit diet is more complicated than the old-fashioned bowl of pellets. But if you follow these directions, you’ll be rewarded with a bright-eyed, energetic bunny companion for many happy years.

In this video lesson, Dimitri LaBarge (please visit his website: http://www.infinite-moment.com) shows us how to find a Rabbit Veterinarian. It wasn’t always the case, but these days many vets can care for rabbits and other small creatures—which is lucky for us and our bunny buds!



You Will Need:



- A list of questions to ask potential bunny vets

- And the ability to sniff out the right choice



Step 1: Ask Around



Of course the simplest way to find a vet who treats rabbits is to ask around. Possible sources of information are rabbit breeders, rescuers, and owners; pet stores; and other veterinarians.



Step 2: Ask About Spaying



Make sure a potential rabbit vet is comfortable with spaying or neutering your bunny.



Step 3: Ask About Syringe-feeding



Ask the vet if he or she can syringe-feed a colicky bunny—and show you how to do it if necessary.



TIP: A rabbit vet should be able to help you locate high-quality feed hay—timothy, not alfalfa—and timothy-based rabbit pellets.



Step 4: Ask About Bunny Buddies



If a bunny needs to board at the vet for certain procedures, it will often recover faster with a companion. If you own more than one rabbit, ask the vet if he or she will board a “bunny buddy,” too.



Step 5: Ask About Dental Care



Since many rabbits develop dental problems, make sure the vet knows how to provide basic bunny dental care.



Step 6: Spread the Word



Found someone good? Then take your rabbit in for annual checkups—and pass the word along to other rabbit owners!



Interesting Fact: Providing plenty of timothy or other high-quality, low-calcium hay is the best way to keep your bunny’s teeth from growing too long.

In this video, Nelson Nunez (please visit his website: http://www.nelsonnunez.com) shows us how to train a rabbit to use a litter box. Did you know that rabbits can be litter-trained? Having a properly trained bunny means less mess and stress for you—and the bonus for your bunny is that she’ll get more freedom around the house.



You Will Need:



- A rabbit in need of training

- A litter box for the rabbit’s cage, about 9” by 12”

- A litter box for outside the cage, as large as possible

- Newspapers to line the litter boxes

- Rabbit-safe litter, such as hay, aspen shavings, or pelleted paper

- Plenty of time and patience

- White vinegar (optional)

- Puppy pens or gates (optional)

- Extra litter boxes for outside the cage (optional)

- Feed-quality timothy hay (optional)



Step 1: Be Patient



Shore up a good store of patience before you begin litter training your rabbit. It may take a while…



TIP: A spayed or neutered rabbit will be much easier to litter train.



Step 2: Line the Small Box



Litter-training a rabbit is a two-tier process. First, you’ll be training your bunny to use the litter box inside her cage. Line a small litter box with newspaper, and top the newspaper with your chosen rabbit-safe litter.



TIP: Never use “clumping” cat litter, pine shavings, or cedar shavings in your rabbit’s litter boxes. These contain substances that can be harmful.



Step 3: Put the Box in the Cage



Put the litter box in one corner of the cage. Put a few rabbit droppings into the box to give Bunny a hint, and when you catch the bunny using the box, give her plenty of praise.



Step 4: Change the Box



Change the litter box at least every other day; your bunny is more likely to use a clean box. Between changes, top it off with fresh litter. Whenever you remove the box, replace it to the same corner.



TIP: White vinegar is the best cleaner and deodorizer for litter boxes—just make sure to rinse the box with water after using the vinegar.



Step 5: Lure the Bunny



Expect that your rabbit will want to hang out in her litter box. This is perfectly normal. In fact, many owners put a little feed hay in the box to lure their bunnies there and give them a snack while they relax.



TIP: If your bunny has been using her litter box successfully but starts to “dribble” urine around her cage, take her to a rabbit vet. When a rabbit abandons her training, it can be a sign that she’s unwell.



Step 6: Start Floor Time



Once the rabbit is reliable about her cage litter box, it’s time to start letting her out of the cage for “floor time.” Choose a small area to start with—and make sure it’s been bunny-proofed.



TIP: Puppy pens or gates are useful to confine your bunny to one area.



Step 7: Line the Large Box



Line the large litter box with newspaper and rabbit-safe litter. Always keep it in the same part of your house—preferably in a corner and on a floor that’s easy to clean.



Step 8: Correct Mistakes



If you spot the bunny about to pee or poop away from the box, say “NO!” in a loud voice while clapping your hands. Gently pick her up and put her into her litter box.



Step 9: Don’t Scold



Never scold your bunny if she makes a mistake. Rabbits can’t learn that way. Instead, use positive reinforcement, and praise her when you see her use the box.



TIP: Use white vinegar to clean up bunny pee. It will help with odors and may prevent your rabbit from using the same spot again.



Step 10: Expand the Area



Hopefully, within a few weeks your bunny should start using the litter box outside her cage as well as the one inside. Now you can expand her play area even more, leaving her cage open and accessible so she can return if she wants.



TIP: If you have room, put more than one litter box in the bunny’s play space—and if she insists on using one particular spot outside her box, move it to the spot she keeps using.



Step 11: Go Slow



Keep gradually enlarging the play area. You don’t want Bunny to lose track of that box! She may mark her territory or leave a few pellets around when she’s playing—but the bulk of her business will be done in her boxes. Now enjoy your “house bunny”!



Interesting Fact: Because of their longer attention spans and calmer personalities, adult rabbits are easier to train than young ones.

In this video, Nelson Nunez (please visit his website: http://www.nelsonnunez.com) shows us how to make rabbit toys. There's nothing a rabbit likes more than toys they can climb inside, shred, and drag around. With a good pair of scissors, you can make a steady supply of bunny-pleasers that won’t cost you a thing.



You Will Need:



- A rabbit

- Heavy-duty scissors

- Clean, old towels of any size

- A sturdy knife

- Corrugated cardboard boxes

- Empty cereal boxes and cardboard oatmeal containers

- Feed-quality timothy hay

- Old phone books and paperback books

- A clean old T-shirt or pieces of cotton cloth (optional)



Step 1: Make Rag Dolls



Cut off the legs of the jeans with the scissors. Discard the top part of the jeans, and tie a knot in each leg. Presto: two machine-washable rabbit “rag dolls.”



TIP: Clean old T-shirts or rags can also be made into rabbit toys.



Step 2: Make Towel Toys



Give your rabbit towels to sit on, drag around, and play tug-of-war with.



TIP: Make sure to wash all bunny towels regularly. Rabbits may use them instead of a litter box.



Step 3: Make Cardboard Castles



Use heavy-duty scissors or a sturdy knife to cut rabbit-sized doors in a few boxes and turn them into playhouses. biting the doors into new shapes.



TIP: Always cut two doors in a cardboard box. Rabbits prefer to play in boxes that they know they’ll be able to get out of easily.



Step 4: Offer Boxes or Containers



Give your bunny empty cereal boxes and cardboard oatmeal containers to shred, drag, and sit on. Stick a handful of timothy hay inside to make the toy especially enticing.



TIP: Cut a slit up the side of an oatmeal container so there’s no chance your rabbit can get their head stuck inside.



Step 5: Use Old Phonebooks and Paperbacks



Since they don’t contain staples, old phonebooks and paperbacks are fun and safe for bunnies to tear up.